Dubai is easy to dismiss as a city of superlatives with no soul: the tallest building, the largest mall, the most artificial island. Spend a week here and you'll encounter something more nuanced – a young city working out what it wants to be, with genuine cultural ambition alongside the architectural showmanship.
The Burj Khalifa (At the Right Time)
At 828 metres, the world's tallest building is worth visiting for the vertigo alone. Book the 148th floor (At the Top Sky) tickets at least two weeks ahead; sunset and after-dark tickets sell out furthest in advance. The ground-level Dubai Fountain show, which erupts every 30 minutes in the evenings, is free and genuinely spectacular.
Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood
Dubai's old town is a world away from the gleaming towers of downtown. Wind towers (the Gulf's pre-air conditioning cooling system), merchant houses converted to museums and galleries, dhow-building yards, and the Dubai Museum are all here. Take the abra (water taxi) across Dubai Creek to the spice and gold souks on the Deira side – gold sold by weight, spices piled in aromatic mountains.
Alserkal Avenue
Dubai's arts district, built into a converted industrial area of Al Quoz, contains the city's most interesting galleries, creative businesses, and independent cafés. It's the Dubai that doesn't appear in tourism brochures, and the better for it.
Food
Dubai has become one of the world's most interesting food cities, precisely because its diverse resident population (90% of residents are expatriates) has created demand for authentic cuisines from across the world. Jordanian, Filipino, Pakistani, and Ethiopian restaurants in Deira and Bur Dubai serve exceptional food at modest prices. For fine dining, the city has more Michelin-starred restaurants than most European capitals.
Practical Notes
October to April is the comfortable season; summer temperatures exceed 45°C and are actively unpleasant outdoors. The Metro is excellent, clean, and air-conditioned. Dress modestly in souks and historic neighbourhoods. Alcohol is available in licensed hotels and restaurants but is expensive compared to non-alcohol alternatives.