Istanbul has been the capital of three empires and one of the world's great cities for nearly three millennia. The Bosphorus strait divides Europe and Asia here, and the city's remarkable position has made it history's crossroads. Walking between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia – one of the world's great architectural experiences – you are standing at the physical intersection of civilisations.
Sultanahmet
The historic heart of the old city contains the Hagia Sophia (converted back to a mosque in 2020 – visitors still welcome outside of prayer times), the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace, the Basilica Cistern, and the Grand Bazaar within a 20-minute walk. This is the most historically dense neighbourhood in Europe, and no amount of other travel diminishes its impact. Allow two full days minimum.
Beyoglu and Karaköy
Cross the Galata Bridge to the European new city. The Galata Tower (14th century Genoese watchtower) offers the finest 360° view of Istanbul and the Bosphorus. Istiklal Caddesi, the main pedestrian street, is lined with Art Nouveau buildings and flows into Taksim Square, the city's social centre. Karaköy, below the Galata Tower, is Istanbul's most creative neighbourhood: galleries, concept stores, excellent restaurants.
The Bosphorus
A public ferry from Eminönü to Anadolu Kavağı (the mouth of the Black Sea) for a few lira is the finest way to understand Istanbul's geography and marvel at the yalı (waterfront mansions) and Ottoman fortresses lining both shores. The journey takes about two hours each way.
Food
Istanbul's food culture is extraordinary. Breakfast is an event: a Turkish breakfast spread (beyaz peynir, kaymak, olives, tomatoes, eggs, simit, çay) is one of the great morning meals. The street food is excellent: midye dolma (stuffed mussels), balık ekmek (fish sandwiches), and simit (sesame-encrusted bread rings) are all superb. For dining, the Karaköy and Cihangir neighbourhoods have excellent contemporary Turkish restaurants alongside the traditional meyhane (taverna) culture.