There are cities that look good in photographs, and then there's Marrakech, which seems specifically designed to be seen through a lens. Every alley in the Medina is a composition waiting to happen, and the light – warm, golden, luminous – is like nothing else in the Mediterranean world.
The Medina at Golden Hour
Wake before sunrise and walk the narrow lanes of the old city as merchants set up their stalls. The raking light of early morning turns the ochre walls to honey and copper. By mid-morning it's already too harsh and the crowds have arrived. The same magic returns in the hour before sunset – the call to prayer sounds, the light goes amber, and the city briefly feels medieval again.
Jardin Majorelle
The cobalt blue of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé's legendary garden is so saturated it barely looks real. The contrast with the flame-red bougainvillea and terracotta pots makes for images that practically compose themselves. Visit on weekday mornings to avoid the Instagram crowds.
The Dyers' Souk
Skeins of freshly dyed wool hang drying over alley entrances in every colour imaginable. The dyers themselves – working in pits of vivid colour, as their ancestors have for centuries – are often happy to be photographed if you approach with respect and a genuine interest in their craft.
Tanneries
The Chouara tannery, visible from the rooftops of surrounding leather goods shops, is one of the most photographed spots in Africa. The circular vats of colour – white (pigeon dung), red (poppy), yellow (saffron), green (mint) – are medieval in both appearance and process. Visit in the morning when the workers are active.
Practical Photography Notes
Always ask before photographing people, and expect to pay a small fee. A few dirhams given with genuine goodwill tends to result in far more natural, authentic portraits than any photo taken surreptitiously. A 35mm lens is ideal for the tight lanes of the Medina; leave the tripod at the hotel.