New York is one of those cities that demands to be understood rather than merely visited. The tourists who spend three days ticking off the Empire State Building, Times Square, and a Central Park carriage ride miss almost everything that makes New Yorkers proud of their city. Here's what they're actually doing.
Neighbourhoods Over Landmarks
The West Village is Manhattan at its most beautiful: cobblestone streets, Federal-era townhouses, independent bookshops, and some of the city's finest restaurants. Astoria, Queens is one of the world's great immigrant food neighbourhoods – Greek, Egyptian, Korean, and Colombian cuisines within a ten-minute walk. Bushwick, Brooklyn is where the art scene actually lives, with murals covering entire city blocks. Harlem has the Apollo Theatre, exceptional soul food, and gospel brunch at Sylvia's on Sundays.
The Food
New York's food culture is genuinely unmatched. A $3 slice of pizza from a counter joint beats almost any restaurant pizza in the world. The bagels – specifically, H&H Bagels on the Upper West Side or Russ & Daughters on the Lower East Side – are not replicated anywhere on earth. The city's Korean barbecue (Koreatown on 32nd Street), its Sichuan Chinese (Flushing, Queens), and its Yemeni restaurants (Bay Ridge, Brooklyn) are world-class at neighbourhood prices.
Museums
The Metropolitan Museum of Art contains more great art than any building in the Western Hemisphere. The MoMA is essential. The Frick Collection (recently reopened) is one of the world's most intimate great art experiences. The Brooklyn Museum is underrated. None of these require advance booking for regular admission.
Getting Around
The subway is the city. A week's unlimited MetroCard costs $34. The grid above 14th Street is completely logical – avenues run north-south, streets run east-west. Walking across Manhattan from river to river is one of the great urban experiences, and takes about 45 minutes.